Frequently Asked Questions

Most appliance repairs in the GTA range from $120 to $350, depending on the appliance type, the fault diagnosed, and parts required. More complex repairs (compressor replacement, control board) can run higher. We always provide a full written quote before starting any work — you decide whether to proceed. Our service diagnostic fee is waived if you go ahead with the repair.

Yes — all our repairs include a 90-day labour warranty. If the same fault returns within 90 days, we come back and fix it at no charge. Parts we install carry the manufacturer's own warranty, typically 6–12 months. We stand behind every repair we do.

Yes. Same-day appointments are available Monday through Saturday, 9 AM–7 PM across most of the GTA. Call us before noon and we can usually have a technician at your home within 2–4 hours. Book online or call (416) 524-2633 to check today's availability.

Absolutely. All PRT Appliance technicians are Ontario-licensed appliance service technicians, many holding Red Seal certification. We carry full commercial general liability and errors & omissions insurance. We never hire subcontractors — every technician on your doorstep is a vetted PRT employee in uniform with ID.

We serve the entire Greater Toronto Area, including: Toronto (all neighbourhoods), North York, Scarborough, Etobicoke, Mississauga, Brampton, Vaughan, Markham, Richmond Hill, Oakville, Burlington, and surrounding communities. Not sure if we cover your area? Call us — chances are we do.

A fridge that runs but doesn't cool has several possible causes:

• Dirty or blocked condenser coils (most common — easy fix)
• Faulty evaporator or condenser fan motor
• Refrigerant leak requiring professional recharge
• Failed compressor (most expensive repair)
• Defective thermostat or temperature sensor
• Ice buildup blocking the evaporator (defrost system failure)

Our technician will diagnose the exact cause and provide an upfront quote before any work begins.

A general rule: if the repair cost is less than 50% of the replacement cost and the fridge is under 10–12 years old, repair is usually the better value. Compressor replacements on older units are the exception — those typically don't make financial sense. Our technicians will honestly advise you on whether repair makes sense for your specific situation.

If your refrigerator compartment is freezing food, the most likely culprits are a faulty thermostat (not reading temperature correctly), a failed damper control (letting too much cold air from the freezer), or a defective thermistor. This is a common and straightforward repair — usually resolved in a single visit.

The type of noise matters:

• Buzzing/humming: Normal compressor sound, or a faulty water inlet valve
• Rattling: Loose drain pan, condenser fan hitting something, or refrigerator not level
• Clicking: Compressor trying to start (could indicate start relay failure)
• Banging/knocking: Ice maker issue or compressor problem requiring immediate attention

Don't ignore unusual noises — they often indicate a developing fault that's cheaper to fix early.

Not draining is one of the most common washer issues. Likely causes include: a clogged pump filter (check your owner's manual — this is often DIY-accessible), a blocked or kinked drain hose, a failed drain pump motor, or a faulty lid switch (top-loaders). Not spinning is often the lid switch, motor coupling (top-loaders), or worn drive belt. Our technicians carry common parts for same-day repair.

Before calling us, check the obvious: is the lint trap clogged? Is the external vent blocked? A clogged vent is the #1 cause of no-heat dryers and can also be a fire hazard. If the vent is clear, the likely cause is a burned-out heating element (electric dryers), a faulty thermal fuse (blows to prevent fires), or a bad igniter (gas dryers). All are straightforward repairs typically completed in one visit.

Some vibration is normal during spin, but excessive shaking usually indicates: an unbalanced load (redistribute clothes), an unlevel machine (adjust the feet), worn or damaged shock absorbers/struts, a broken drum bearing, or a loose drum spider (found in front-loaders). Severe vibration can damage flooring and worsen internal wear — it's worth addressing promptly.

Standing water after a cycle is usually caused by a clogged filter/drain basket (clean this first — it's DIY), a blocked drain hose, a faulty drain pump, or a problem with the garbage disposal connection (if your dishwasher drains through it). Check the filter under the bottom spray arm — clogged filters cause most dishwasher drainage issues and take 5 minutes to clean.

Poor wash results are often caused by blocked spray arm holes (remove and rinse them), a clogged filter, low water temperature, wrong detergent amount, or overloading. White residue or film is typically hard water mineral buildup — try adding a rinse aid and running a hot cycle with dishwasher cleaner. If the spray arms rotate freely and the filter is clean, the issue may be a failing water inlet valve or heating element.

Stop running the dishwasher immediately to prevent water damage. Door leaks are commonly caused by a worn or hardened door gasket/seal (replace it — this is relatively inexpensive), a misaligned door latch, or using too much detergent causing excess suds. Leaks from underneath are more serious and could indicate a pump seal failure or cracked sump — those need professional attention.

Temperature inaccuracy is most often caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor (a probe inside the oven cavity), a failing bake element (electric), or a dirty oven that affects airflow. You can test accuracy with an oven thermometer — if it's off by more than 25°F, a sensor calibration or replacement is typically needed. Gas ovens with temperature issues may have a failing igniter or faulty valve.

Gas burners that won't ignite are often clogged burner ports (food debris blocks the gas flow — clean with a toothpick and warm water), a wet or dirty igniter, or a failed spark module. If the burner clicks continuously but won't light, the igniter is likely faulty. If you smell gas but no clicking, the spark module may have failed. Never attempt to fix gas connections yourself — call us.

Yes — this is almost always a faulty infinite switch (the temperature control switch behind the knob). It's a straightforward repair and we stock switches for most brands. Coil element failure can also cause this symptom. Burner socket and receptacle replacement is also common on older coil-top ranges. Usually fixed in a single visit.

You have two options: Call us directly at (416) 524-2633 for the fastest response (we can often book same-day), or fill out our online booking form at prtappliance.ca/contact and we'll call you back within an hour during business hours. When you call, have your appliance brand, model number (if you have it), and a brief description of the problem ready.

Yes — a responsible adult must be present during the repair to grant access, receive the diagnosis, approve the quote, and authorize the work. If you need to arrange for another adult (family member, etc.) to be present, that's fine. We'll confirm the appointment window in advance and give you a courtesy call 30 minutes before arrival.

We accept cash, Visa, Mastercard, Interac debit, and e-Transfer. Payment is due on completion of the repair. We do not require payment upfront — you only pay once the work is done and you're satisfied. A detailed invoice is provided for all repairs.